Escoffier Week in Bali | French-Indonesian Culinary Bridge | November 2022
Before giving an insight of the Escoffier Week, and going through all the events held in Bali, from 7 to 10 November 2022, it is essential to introduce Monsieur Auguste Escoffier known as “King of Chefs and Chefs of Kings” to the neophytes. For those not working in the culinary industry, you might have heard the name nevertheless. In short, Auguste Escoffier is the first chef to have codified French cooking techniques, kitchen team organisation, and service sequences as we know them today.
Young Talents Escoffier Culinary Contest: Poularde Devonshire from "Le Guide Culinaire" prepared by I Kadek Sumiarta
Who is Auguste Escoffier?
Georges-Auguste Escoffier was born in 1846 in a small town near Nice in southern France. Born into a humble family, he began his culinary career as apprentice at his uncle's restaurant in Nice at the age of 12. He quickly became known for his innovative cooking styles and became Roaster then Sausage Clerk at a prestigious Parisian restaurant seven years later. Growing up, he had a passion for art, but his talent for cooking was noticed by many. His remarkable cooking skills enabled him to obtain the sous-chef position at Le Petit Moulin Rouge in Paris. At that time, the concept of high-end cuisine was not well-known. The food service industry was not seen as a prestigious profession, and it was quite disorderly and shambolic. Chiefly remembered for his ground-breaking work, he helped popularize fine dining and made French cuisine (and produce) one of the world's most popular one.
During the 1870 Franco-Prussian War, Escoffier served as Chef de Cuisine at the headquarters of the French Army of the Rhine in Metz, and it was during his service years that he realised the importance of canning and preserving food, especially since fresh ingredients were in short supply. After testing various methods, he finally found a technique for preserving tomato sauce in champagne bottles. Not only did his army lifestyle had an impact on his cooking methods, this experience has taught him that groups can be organized and coordinated to achieve common goals. After the war, Escoffier restructured his kitchen into a military-like system, which is the basis of the kitchen hierarchy still in use in restaurants worldwide. Cooks were assigned specific roles and locations in the kitchen and were under the command of supervisors. Everyone coordinated their efforts so that every station was working to the best of their ability. The terms Chef de Cuisine, Sous-Chef, Chef de Partie, and Saucier were pioneered by Escoffier under his kitchen brigade system.
In 1890, Escoffier started to work with César Ritz, the founder of the famous Ritz-Carlton hotel brand. Ritz was the manager of the notable Savoy Hotel in London and Escoffier was appointed head chef, in charge of the kitchen. He revolutionized how restaurant kitchens were organized. Escoffier's fame grew by creating many new dishes that were based on the preferences of hotel guests. On one special occasion, he created the Peach Melba, a dish in honour of opera singer Nellie Melba who was staying at the hotel.
Encouraged by their success, the duo would also manage the Hotel Ritz in Paris and the Carlton Hotel in London in 1898. Escoffier's innovative influence also spread to the front of the house. He broke the tradition of serving all of the food courses at the same time. Food arrived in the order requested, and guests could choose specific dishes from the menu. Thus, the adoption of the new approach called " à la carte" was born.
In 1913, he was put in charge of the kitchen on the SS Imperator, an enormous ship transporting guests including Kaiser Wilhelm II of Germany, to organize the kitchen system in the 20th-century transatlantic ocean liners. It was during this encounter that Kaiser Wilhelm reportedly bestowed upon Escoffier the famed moniker “King of Chefs and Chef of Kings”. After congratulating Escoffier on the meal, the Kaiser allegedly proclaimed, “I am the Emperor of Germany, but you are the Emperor of Chefs.”
In his later life, Escoffier continued to run kitchens and published many cookbooks and kitchen guides. His most famous one being “Le Guide Culinaire” in 1903, which is still used as a major reference. His goal was to organize and simplify the classic French cooking of Antoine Carême, who he regarded as a master of haute cuisine. Containing over 5000 recipes the "Guide" is now considered a timeless bible for classic French cooking. It was written to categorize and modernize French haute cuisine, introducing sophisticated yet lighter dishes, and a more methodical way of cooking.
Escoffier's passion for cooking and his influence within the culinary world extended beyond the kitchen to a number of social causes. Escoffier was a humanitarian at heart and took a strong stance fighting against poverty. As early as 1890, Escoffier would give unserved food from the Savoy Hotel to the “Little Sisters of the Poor” in London daily. In addition, he started the first fundraising dinners for charitable causes such as helping retired chefs in need. Escoffier continued to lead the Carlton Hotel until retiring in 1920. He was the founder of the “World Association of Chef Societies” (now Worldchefs) in 1928 with four core focus areas: education, networking, competition, and humanitarian & sustainability. Escoffier served as its first President.
Auguste Escoffier's techniques and methods are still relevant today, long after his death. Escoffier’s legacy and tradition of culinary greatness continue through the safeguard of Disciples Escoffier International since 1954. The Disciples Escoffier is a worldwide association of chefs and epicureans who pledged to promote the values of Mr. Escoffier. With 53 delegations around the world, including 13 in Asia-Pacific, the 30.000 worldwide members’ mission is to honour the memory of Auguste Escoffier, promote the art of cooking and eating, organize culinary competitions for young chefs and waiters, and participate in charitable events.
Escoffier died in 1935, leaving a legacy of great French cuisine that continues to be enjoyed by millions. “Good food is the foundation of genuine happiness” he said. Can’t disagree with that, can we?
Disciples Escoffier International Indonesia
Created in 2021 under the guidance of Robert Fontana, President of Disciples Escoffier International APAC, Disciples Escoffier International Indonesia was first established in Jakarta, promptly followed by Bali. His President, Chef Gilles Marx, chef-founder of Amuz in Jakarta, is also President of the Indonesian Bocuse d'Or Team. The brigade coached by Chef Chris Salans (co-founder of DEI Indonesia), is the only one to have qualified for the Bocuse d'Or Final in France. Within 1 year, the association regrouped over 100 members, bringing together local and international chefs, professionals in the kitchen and the dining room, quality producers and gourmets. Should you wish to know more or contact the association for membership, it’s here.
The Symposium
Three distinctive events took place in Bali for the first Escoffier Week in Indonesia. Launched with a Symposium at Elizabeth International Hotel & Business School in Denpasar, the open-talk theme was “French-Indonesian Culinary Bridge”. An impressive panel, with the support of the Indonesian minister of Tourism and Creative Economy, Bapak Sandiaga Salahuddin Uno, of celebrity chefs, such as Mandif Warokka (BLANCO par Mandif - Bali), Wayan Kresna Yasa (Home by Chef Wayan- Bali), Gilles Marx (Amuz - Jakarta), Chris Salans (Mozaic - Bali), Philip John Golding (Golding Culinary Group - Philippines), and DEI dignitaries Christian Heuline (DEI General Secretary International) representing DEI International’s President Nicolas Sale, and Thierry Muller (DEI APAC General Treasurer), under the presidency of Guillaume Gomez, French Ambassador for Gastronomy, special representative of French President Emmanuel MACRON, also the Honorary President of Young Talents Escoffier APAC 2022, the discussion, in presence of Ms. Rizki Handayani Mustafa (Deputy for Tourism Products and Event Organizers) who represented Bapak Sandiaga Uno, focussed on the enhancement of Indonesian food and ingredients (especially spices) in the region and beyond, pursuing the ministry program to spread the archipelago cuisine & produce globally. The other topic discussed was the transmission of local cuisine techniques and codification, like Auguste Escoffier “Guide Culinaire”, to pass-on savoir-faire and inspire chefs, here and overseas, on the rich and diverse culinary culture of Indonesia. A big shout out to Chris Salans for helping both parties to connect, with the aim to promote Indonesian food abroad through the DEI association.
I hope that this symposium is the first of many, and will help facilitate other fruitful collaborations between industry professionals and the government in the future.
The Symposium panel with its dignitaries of the Indonesian Government and Disciples Escoffier International
Young Talents Escoffier Competition
The "Young Talents Escoffier" competition has become an important part of the international gastronomy scene, thanks to the support of the Disciples Escoffier International. The culinary contest is known for its focus on young professionals, with categories open only to those under 25. The 2 categories are: Culinary Contest for young chefs, and Service Contest for service à la Française, featuring a diversity of cuisine and service options.
How does it work? Each delegation organises its own competition, sending their winners to the semi-final for the zone. This year, due to restrictions still in place in some areas, 8 APAC delegations were represented out of the 13 countries. The winners of the Culinary and the Service contests, will then be send to Italy, to represent APAC at the World Final in 2023. The young and talented I Kadek Sumiarta, from DEI Indonesia, won 1st prize for Culinary, and the gifted and passionate Thomas Teikitohe won the Service category, representing DEI Tahiti-French Polynesia. Congratulations to both of them, and all the best with the final!
1st Prize Winner for the Culinary Contest, I Kadek Sumiarta (DEI Indonesia) with Chef Guillaume Gomez. (Photo courtesy of DEI APAC)
1st Prize Winner of the Service Contest, Thomas Teikitohe (DEI Tahiti - French Polynesia) in action during the competition. (Photo courtesy of DEI APAC)
Black & White Gala Dinner
Last but not least, a Gala Dinner took place at The Trans Hotel Resort, with 5 prestigious chefs from the Asia-Pacific region, who created an exclusive menu inspired by Auguste Escoffier. The first dish was presented by Italian Chef Andrea Astone, executive sous chef of Koral Restaurant at The Apurva Kempinski Bali. Marble Foie Gras Glazed with Sauternes Jelly, Confit Onion, Bali Crayfish, Nantua Coulis and Squid Ink Pearl. The association may seem daring but the blend of flavours, as disconcerting as it was pleasant, was of high quality. The sweet wine jelly offered a hint of syrupiness to the fat duck liver while the squid ink pearls and ecrevisse brought a nice sea breeze to the palate. What a way to start!
The Black & White Gala Dinner at The Trans Resort Bali. (Photo courtesy of DEI APAC)
Chef Andrea Astone's Marble Foie Gras Glazed with Sauternes Jelly, Confit Onion, Bali Crayfish, Nantua Coulis and Squid Ink Pearl.
The next course, from 2-star Michelin Chef Thierry Drapeau, from the legendary restaurant Logis de la Chabotterie in France, and his signature restaurant in Bangkok was a Spicy Citrus Sabayon Vegetables, Bouillabaisse Prawns Just Seared, and Tagetes Flower. Chef Thierry's "cuisine of the soil" approach emphasizes the use of the finest, purest ingredients and flavours from land and sea. This distinctive style of cooking is inspired by nature and brings together the best of both worlds. The marigold flower brings bitter, spicy and a bit sour scent at the same time, helping the slightly piquant sabayon to elevate the bouillabaisse bisque and the prawn, with a nice kick of anis at the end. The perfect example of a classic dish revisited. Creativity at its peak!
Spicy Citrus Sabayon Vegetables, Bouillabaisse Prawns Just Seared, and Tagetes Flower from Chef Thierry Drapeau.
The Dried Aged Salmon, Lightly Cook, Caviar Sturia and Sour Cream Leek was the brainchild of Chef Bruno Menard, a celebrated chef on 3 Continents, former executive chef of Restaurant L'Osier, a three-star Michelin restaurant in Tokyo, now permanently based in Singapore. I have to admit, it was a first to consume a dry-aged fish. The flesh of the salmon, barely cooked, was extraordinarily textured and intense. Melting and not as fatty as a natural salmon. Wow! I've never experienced something quite like it. The salinity of the caviar (very generous portion, thank you!) with the smooth mild oniony undertone leek cream, and the dill touch to finish, made this dish my favourite of the evening!
Dried Aged Salmon, Lightly Cook, Caviar Sturia and Sour Cream Leek from Chef Bruno Menard. (Photo courtesy of DEI APAC)
No need to introduce the next chef to the island's foodies. Maître Cuisinier de France, the first to open fine dining in Bali, reinventing French cuisine, fusion-ing it with local spices and products, making him the island's top culinary Ambassador, the one and only, Chef Chris Salans from Mozaic in Ubud! The Slow Cook Wagyu Beef, topped with Shaved Truffle and a delicate thus powering Périgueux Sauce, was delectable. The marbled meat was so tender with its natural fat coating the palate, while the rich, classic sauce flavoured with Madeira and pungent earthy black truffles, combine with the Indonesian Kluwek crumbs with flavours reminiscent of cacao, mushrooms and black olives, diffused a sous-bois-wood-fire long finish to the ensemble. Hats off chef!
Chef Chris Salans' Slow Cook Wagyu Beef, Shaved Truffle, Perigueux Sauce, Young Vegetable Tart, Indonesia Kluwek. (Photo courtesy of DEI APAC)
After these incredible fireworks of delicacies, the Mandarin Sorbet was perfect to soothe the taste buds before the dessert, concocted by Chef Eric Perez. The Bangkok based Maître Pâtissier is well-known in the industry since his talent led him to Washington, D.C. where he served as Pastry Chef of the French Embassy before joining The Ritz-Carlton, serving as Executive Pastry Chef in Pentagon City for twelve years, and being selected twice to serve on Team USA for the Coupe de Monde de Pâtisserie (world cup of pastry) taking silver medal once. The Jika Chocolate and Vanilla Alliance, Touch of Yuzu was mind-blowing. An unctuous 60% chocolate mousse atop a crisp buckwheat sablé, topped with a vanilla diplomate smoothing the palate, capped with a thin chocolate disc sprinkled with crystalized pecans, roasted cocoa nibs, and salt flakes to accentuate the cacao feel. The touch of yuzu, worked three ways, came as orange-yuzu compote, yuzu crèmeux and yuzu jelly discs, for a refreshing, citrusy tang, sharp and acidic scent with a strong floral aroma. What a delight to end the evening with such extravagance!
The Jika Chocolate and Vanilla Alliance, Touch of Yuzu from Pastry Chef Eric Perez.
In accordance with the philanthropic tradition of Auguste Escoffier, part of the proceeds of the 200 attendees' Gala Dinner was donated to Scholars Of Sustenance - Bali (Yayasan Derma Atas Pangan), a food rescue foundation working to solve the global food deficit issue by distributing good quality nutriment to those who need it.
The DEI APAC delegations pledged to uphold the founding values of the Association and to continue sharing and transferring knowledge and passion for French cuisine and cooking techniques. The Bali Escoffier Week was a great success from start to finish, with instructive encounters and discussions, culminating in a lavish culinary experience.
I'm looking forward to future events of this calibre and meeting the next generation of chefs for new gourmet experiences.
Experienced November 2022
All of the above!
