Ode to Gastronomy

Foodies Notes: Apéritif Restaurant & Bar, Ubud - Dine & Wine Bali

Ubud restaurant Apéritif Restaurant & Bar is a big-ticket commitment, but Chef Nic Vanderbeeken and his team make a powerful case for keeping the high-end category kicking, recently launching the new Prestige Menu, a 7 to 9-course set, getting even more adventurous and original than before. Of course, the Signature Menu is still available, and revamped, since our previous Foodie’s Notes in 2020.

The meal lasts about 3 hours but time seems to stand still there, maybe due to the interior, a reminiscence of the colonial era. First, you’re introduced to a bartender and his trolley of homemade fragranced liquors and concoctions, making standard drinks with subtle variations like the Nightshade Negroni with Nusantara Cold Brew, Tamarillo, East Indies Gin, etc., and new inspiration like The Novelist made of Tequila scented with Aji Limo - a Peruvian hot pepper with a citrusy tang- and Huacatay, an aromatic herb with notes of basil, spearmint, citrus and tarragon. While supping your crafted cocktails, “snacks” are served to prepare your palate. Potato Leaf, Fish Tartare & Yuzu Kosho; the signature one-bite Charcoal Puff Smoked Mackerel blasting your taste buds; the Martino, a Belgium style beef tartare; and a Squid Tartlet, Yoghurt, Clam and Suna Cekuh, a condiment bringing its Balinese charm to the dish.

Two Snacks: Martino and the Squid Tartlet

While the servers attend to every detail, Belgium Chef Nic sends out dish after gorgeous dish: a shiny raw Scallop Aguachile, the Rolls Royce of ceviche dishes, in which the luxurious scallop is bathed in a fiery solution of Cucamelon, Colo Colo, Coriander, for a deep sour taste to a mildly sweet aftertaste. The Sancerre served with it, might be a bit too mineral for the dish though. Then comes the Otoro. The most desirable part from the inside of the tuna’s belly, because it is the fattiest part of the fish, practically melting in your mouth. The natural fatty texture merges well with the sweetness of the Tomatoes, and the Kemangi sorbet brings an herbal finish.

Scallop Aguachile

The Turnip will surprise many as it might not be the most popular vegetable in households but, combined with the Ikura (salmon roe) bringing its sea breeze smack, the Smoked Oil, and Kombucha, the combination of flavors, temperatures, and textures are out of this world. The wine, a Cortese, Batasiolo Granée Gavi del Comune, Piemont, Italy, is a pairing made in heaven with the root vegetable.

The Turnip with Ikura

It is with great impatience that I awaited the next dish. The Dutch Veal. A piece, I believe, not many will order on their own, but by far one of my favorites. And difficult, if not impossible, to find in Bali. These tender and delicately flavored meats come from young milk-fed veal. Poached then pan-fried the Sweetbreads have a mild flavor and velvety texture. Basted with Albufeira Sauce, a classic French creamy sauce revisited by Chef Nic, made of Foie gras, heavy cream, poultry stock, and Pino de Bali from Hatten Winery. The Morels and King Mushrooms bring a sous-bois bouquet without altering the fine taste of the meat. Orgasmic! Last but not least, the Kagoshima Wagyu A5. So astonishingly tender there's virtually no chewing required. The Sweet Potato “gratin” and the Pear bring harmony and comfort. A pure delight.

The Dutch Veal

Kagoshima Wagyu A5

Chef Vanderbeeken treated us to the Gouda before serving the desserts. The Dutch cheese preparation was one to remember. Highly recommended option. The Honey & Tea, a white mousse of Ivoire Chocolate, Chamomile, Jasmine & Fermented Honey is as tasty as beautiful. The Purple Rain, a blackberry shortcake, fresh blackberry and blueberry, coconut mousse, and crispy meringue, finished with coconut snow was irresistible. Congrats to the pastry Chef Dayu Chinthya, as the desserts aren't overwhelmingly rich or cloyingly sweet, ending the evening with elegance.

Honey & Tea

Purple Rain

Vegetarians and vegans can also indulge as Apéritif features 2 seven-course tasting menus dedicated to these diets. Not to forget, the extensive wine list with more than 200 labels showcased in a glass window temperature-controlled cellar. The listing comprises both well-known wineries as well as those made by smaller producers. Despite the amazing collection, I suggest choosing the Wine Pairing offered, as it is important to match the intensity of the food with the liveliness of the wine.

The Apéritif Bar is also quite popular for its innovative combinations. Have a look at the new section, the Bali 1930s, with cocktails named after some of the first “influencers” such as The Illustrator capturing the spirit of Mexican artist Miguel Covarrubius, or The Primitivist, in honor of Walter Spies, a Moscow-born German who influenced the direction of Balinese art in the ’20s. The bar is also worth a visit, followed or not by an on-site dinner.

Generation Z might not eat like this, but, man, they should. The menu is inspired and tasty. The unorthodox marriage of produce, spices, and savoir-faire is an ode to the gastronomy of the past with Chef Nic’s modern and original approach, to infuse a multicourse European tasting menu with touches of his adoptive Indonesia and beyond. Get an early reservation so you can take the aperitif on the terrace looking out at Ubud's lush valley while the sun’s still out before being seated in the restaurant for the brilliant chef’s distinctive creations.

Whether you’re treating yourself and your partner for a special occasion or just for an evening of sumptuousness with friends, head up to Apéritif Restaurant & Bar at the Viceroy Bali, one of Bali’s best fine-dining destinations. Make your trip to Ubud, an unforgettable one.