Foodies Notes: Tanau Bali in Umalas - Dine & Wine Bali
The allure of modern Indonesian cuisine grows, as many foodies seek to savour local delicacies in a novel manner, as the myriad of local warungs offer limited variety most of the time. Thus, it brings immense pleasure to witness young, gifted chefs embracing the task of presenting an elevated cuisine of the archipelago, showcasing indigenous flavours, products and spices, fusion with Western cooking methods to create never-seen-before menus.
In Umalas, there lies Tanau Bali, a dainty haven, adorned in wooden furnishings, bathed in subdued illumination and soothing tones, promoting the sharing of food and conversation. Its cosy dining room, with open-kitchen, houses a mere twenty seats, with a dozen more on the terrace.
This rare gem is guided by the artistry and ardour of a young couple, equally gifted and impassioned. Brigette Ibrahim, hailing from Batam, Riau Island, pursued her culinary education in Malaysia. Throughout her bachelor's program in culinary arts and business management, she actively engaged in a prestigious cooking competition, namely FHM - Food & Hotel Malaysia, wherein she impressively secured the second position in the meat & poultry category. Subsequently, she gained invaluable experience working alongside renowned professionals such as Chris Salans at Mozaic Ubud and the esteemed chef Nobu Matsuhitsa at Nobu in Kuala Lumpur. Seeking further knowledge in the realm of nutrition, Brigette ventured to Sydney. Her expertise primarily lies in Asian cuisine, complemented by a firm grasp on the intricate utilization of spices.
Chef owners Nathan Bratadjaja & Brigette Ibrahim
Brigette counterpart, Nathan Bratadjaja, a Jakarta native, grew up in south London. His culinary journey commenced in Soho at the Social Eating House by Jason Atherton, followed by invaluable experiences at Maze and Maze Grill under the tutelage of renowned chef Gordon Ramsay. It was here that he refined his expertise in various cooking techniques, with a particular focus on the art of preparing meat and fish, which he now executes flawlessly. Back in Jakarta, he collaborated with his family for a period before relocating to Bali to become a part of Sangkasa Restaurant.
After careful consideration, Brigette and Nathan chose to venture into the realm of establishing their own dining establishment, even amidst the challenging circumstances posed by the ongoing pandemic. Nathan seamlessly incorporates his refined and advanced western & Japanese culinary techniques into the dishes, while Brigette skilfully complements it by drawing upon her profound knowledge of the rich and dynamic Indonesian flavour profiles. And vice versa.
Signature cocktails: Archipelago | Asam Jawa
Tanau cocktails menu turns out innovative highlighting ingredients inspired by the region. Following the advice of the waitress, we tried the Archipelago made of Gin Sous-Vide Infused Ginger Torch, Elderflower & Lemon. It also has a yummy Strawberry Foam on top and comes in a cool, smoky lamppost glass. A nice souring by the ginger torch essence kicks the palate with its reminiscence of berries, while the smokiness takes the nostrils gently. The Asam Jawa, as its name stand, blends Tamarind Juice with Vodka, Lime & Egg White. It paired perfectly with the Pork Bao Bun, one of our starters. The bun bread was light and airy, the soy braised pork with its melting fat was tender and juicy, and the fried onion crispiness and the Sambal Matah accentuated the flavours of the meat, and even more when having a sip of the drink too.
Pork Bao Bun
The Tokusen Wagyu Ox Tongue is the perfect dish if you like it hot. It's a delicacy enjoyed in numerous cultures globally, so don't hesitate to give it a try. The meat, coated in a charcoal crust and tender on the inside, is beautifully caramelized with a soy and ginger glaze. And when paired with the Mango Rujak, consisting of finely shredded ripe mangoes dressed in a sweet, hot, and spicy sauce, it becomes absolutely enchanting!
Tokusen Wagyu Ox Tongue
Absolutely do not miss out on trying the Tokusen Wagyu Brisket when you visit Tanau. This was cooked to perfection, braised slowly in a flavourful peanut sauce that will blow your mind. The taste was incredibly rich and nutty, with a hint of earthiness that adds to its amazing flavour. And let me tell you, calling it tender is a major understatement. It was so tender that you won't believe it until you try it yourself. The traditional Indonesian peanut sauce was slightly too strong for my taste (need no more than a dab to avoid denaturing the beef), but when everything is balanced just right, it creates a truly exquisite combination. And don't even get me started on the pickles! They have just the right amount of tanginess to cleanse your palate between each morsel.
Tokusen Wagyu Brisket
For the main, we opted for the Air Dried Black Cod, Basa Genep Coconut Sauce, Dabu Dabu. To get all the spice flavours in the fish, the cod is massaged with bumbu Bali paste and then left to dry for several hours while absorbing all the essences of the seasoning in the process. Then the fish is simply roasted, served moist, flaking apart with a fork, with a crispy skin. The light but powerful broth with a hint of acidity and chili ending was divine, as was the condiment distinctive and special taste that goes well with any fish-based meals.
Air Dried Black Cod
What a dish we have here! On the menu soon, we were the lucky ones to try it first. The Lamb Shoulder with Tongseng Sauce and its smooth and silky mashed potato are just gorgeous. The aroma of the lamb, its chewy texture, everything about it was brought to life by the sweet, robust, and delightfully spicy tongseng sauce, which truly honours the authentic Indonesian recipe from Java. I have to say, this dish is not only fragrant but also incredibly comforting and delicious!
Lamb Shoulder with Tongseng Sauce
For our sweet finale, we indulged in the delectable Bubur Ketan Hitam with Coconut Ice Cream, a beloved Indonesian delicacy that tantalizes the senses. This delightful sweet porridge is crafted from jet-black glutinous rice, infused with the aroma of pandan leaves, and sweetened with luscious palm sugar. To elevate the sensory experience, it is accompanied by a velvety scoop of coconut ice cream that adds a creamy and tropical touch. After savouring a medley of flavours throughout the meal, this dessert provided the perfect soothing sensation to appease our taste buds.
So, whether you’re into discovering domestic specialties during your holidays or just looking to expand your gastronomic horizons, here is a great spot to discover a modern, next-level Indonesian cuisine, at an affordable price, with likable young hosts, in a sweet atmosphere. It is strongly advised to make a reservation ahead of time as the restaurant's seating capacity is quite limited. Oh, and don't forget, they are closed every Sunday. Selamat Makan!
Experienced June 2023
Tokusen Wagyu Brisket | Air Dried Black Cod
Average Check: IDR350.000++ per person (starter, main, dessert - excluding beverages)