A Neighbourhood Vibe Like in Italy

Foodies Notes: Milano Italian Restaurant in Berawa, Canggu - Dine & Wine Bali

The culture of family restaurants serving homemade Italian cuisine is not the most common here. Sumptuous Italian food made with originality, passion and farm-fresh ingredients is what we need. Looking at Italian cuisine in a different way. It’s no longer just about pizza, even though it has been a great improvement on the offer lately, but finding dishes and ingredients from different parts of Italy.

Milano is first and foremost known for the singular, fresh, generous, pronounced flavours Italian cuisine of Chef Manuel Polin. A highly experienced chef with over a decade of international experience, including heading up the culinary departments of 5* hotels and resorts, and running fine dining restaurants specializing in European and traditional north-eastern Italian cuisine. His focus is on sourcing ingredients locally to preserve the natural environment and emphasizing organic produce, building relationships with local farmers to support the insular economy.

Chef Manuel Polin (Photo courtesy of Milano)

After a taste of his pizza bread simply covered with garlic, cheese and olive oil, we’ve been presented with the special of the month. The Culatello Ham. A real gourmet delicacy. Less known than its cousin, Prosciutto di Parma, the 12-month matured ham is both delicate and bold, smoky at times, like it's barely been kissed by flames, distinctly sweet and musky. Served with warm Gnocco Fritto, some fried bread pillows, the hot-cold effect accentuates the melt-in-your-mouth thinly sliced cured meat natural fat. Hurry before it runs out!

Culatello Ham & Gnocco Fritto

The Dry Aged Tuna Tartare is, surprisingly, prepared as a beef tartare. Same ingredients and condiments, but instead of the runny egg yolk, Chef Polin is using 3-day-cured Egg Yolk which brings a “meaty” taste to the fish. Very interesting indeed. The tuna has a more intense aroma due to dried ageing, while the Tobiko Eggs dispatch a hint of coarseness, refreshed by the grassy Cresses oil. A must-try.

Dry Aged Tuna Tartare

As said previously, Italian cuisine is more than pizza and pasta, but how can you avoid the “piatto nazionale”! Homemade al-dente and chewy Maccheroni pasta, with a Ragú made of minced beef, ground Italian pork sausage, Parma ham and the secret touch of the chef (I know but I won’t tell you) to bring the sauce a concentrated flavour cherished tasting the long-hour simmering stew with every bite. The Gnocchi made of Idaho potatoes for their superior starchiness, are fluffy, light and airy, and imbibe nicely the incredible multi-seasonal-herbs Pesto. The tomato worked 2 ways, one pan-fried and the other confit bears different textures and some punch to the dish. It's opulent!

Maccheroni Ragú

Gnocchi Pesto

Following the waitress's recommendation, we tried the Pan Roasted Blue Mackerel Fillet with Chilled Sicilian Caponata and Berries Gastrique, and we were more than satisfied with the tip-off. As Chef Manuel explained, he is using Spanish mackerel, aka king mackerel, as it’s slightly fattier. The flesh is firm and has a nice, mild ocean essence, while the skin basted with butter is as crispy as it can be. The Caponata, made with Italian eggplant, is pungent harmonizing admirably with the acidity of the Bedugul raspberries' sweet-and-sour sauce and the mackerel.

Pan Roasted Blue Mackerel

As for dessert, my sweet tooth compeer, can't help herself to order tiramisu if it’s on the menu. So, we ordered the Tiramisù Milano. Homemade lady fingers soaked in coffee, layered with a whipped mixture of eggs, sugar, and mascarpone cheese, flavoured with cocoa, and a dash of Frangelico liqueur. An airy, foamy, and very light tiramisu striking a nice balance of tad sweetness with a touch of bitterness. Approved!

Tiramisu Milano

It’s not because of the restricted restaurant options in Berawa that this hip restaurant is busy every night. It has everything to do with warm, welcoming service, generous portions of Italian cuisine, an impressive selection of wines, and a funky bar with awesome cocktail selection and Gourmet Nibbles Menus. And a neighbourhood vibe like in Italy. A destination worth visiting for the atmosphere alone!

Experienced November 2022